Camino Frances, Day 22

 Day22, May 11, 07:20am, 40 degrees & raining, and away we go!!!!

I stepped outside my Albergue to check if it was raining and at that point it was not. So I ordered my cafe con Leche & a piece of Tarts de Santiago cake, basically almond cake. After I finished my morning snack, off I go, only to step outside and be greeted by the rain😡!!, so I don on my poncho and now away I go.  

Leaving Foncebadon, I am still climbing up the Mtn that I started to climb yesterday. Foncebadon is only about half way up to the summit, according to my guide book. I get about 1 mile up and have to stop and shed my rain jacket. I am way too hot with both rain jacket and poncho on. The views of the valley below are stunning. You have the green surrounding hills with the clouds and fog creeping up the valleys📸 moment. It’s stopped raining for the moment, so I can at least open up my poncho to allow some cool air in. Every time I think I am getting close to the top, I turn a corner only to be greeted by more up hill. The trail is very muddy and rocky, very slow going for sure.

7.51am, Entering one of the most iconic places on the entire Camino Trail, Cruz de Ferro. I wouldn’t actually call it a shrine but it’s a place for people pay respect to love ones that have passed on or pray for people that are going through hard times. What is it you ask?, well the best way to describe it. It sits on top of a little Noel on a hill. It’s a very tall wooden poll with a metal cross on top. There are literally thousands and thousands of little stones that cascade down and around this poll. The rocks represent kind of a symbolistic gesture. There are also lots of people’s pictures, religious symbols etc..I actually saw one woman on her knees crying. It’s a very somber place. It reminds me of the USS Arizona Memorial, people walking around looking but not speaking. I also brought a rock to place among the other rocks. I picked it up on the coast of Oregon. A petrified piece of wood that had turned into a rock. I took my hat off  and slowly made my way up to the pile, and found a spot to place the rock. I have been carrying this little rock with me ever since I started this journey,  just for this occasion. I have to admit, I even got a little teary eyed. You have to be there to understand the feeling of this place. Our friend Nancy, who we met last year on the Portugal Camino, would know exactly what I’m trying to explain, since she experienced for herself. I took a picture of the rock I placed, walked back to gather my hat & polls, took one last look and started off back up the trail. 

8:25am, still 40° lite sprinkles just went through the town of Manjarin. There is literally nothing left of the town. Just the old rock structures that used to be structures. There was a little building that had sign for pilgrims to stop, I guess for snacks, but I didn’t see anyone there. So far this trail has been a muddy quagmire. Tip toeing over stones, trying not to fall into to the mud. I come to a clearing and greeted w/ awesome views of the landscape. I can see snow cap mountains in the distance w/ the clouds creeping up the valleys. I can also see cows, in the distance, grazing on the lush green grass. The rain has currently stopped for the moment keeping my fingers crossed. What?, the sun is actually trying to make an appearance. I don’t think it will last long but at least it’s trying to make an appearance. Now I’ve gone from the muddy quagmire trail to this ultra rocky slippery trail, the hits just keep on coming.

9:00am, still 40° but the sun is doing its best to stay out. I think I have finally crested this mountain that I started going up yesterday afternoon. I kept getting to a point that OK we’re getting to the top and then just kept going up & going up. So I think we have finally hit the crest and should be going downhill fairly soon. I’m at 4.2 miles 1hr 38 min. into it. I can honestly say this is definitely been the most challenging stretch of trail that I’ve encountered on the Camino, and the wet conditions are not making it any easier for sure. I’m sure glad I have hiking poles, they have saved me a couple times from going down. Currently the sun is out, yeah!! and walking along these beautiful plants with white & yellow& pink little flowers with some purple thrown in. It will be  really pretty when it’s in full bloom. I also  can see a Mtn, in the not to far distance w/ what looks like a fresh dusting of snow.

9:15am. I have finally crested this Mtn. now I start the downhill portion. If it was anything like the uphill portion, I’m in for bruiser of a hike.

10:00am, entering El Acebo de San Miguel. I am stopping at the first cafe I come to for a cafe con Leche, and maybe a treat. I deserve one after that downhill decent. That was by far, the most difficult descent of a trail that I have ever gone down, and I have been down some very difficult downhill trails. It was so rocky you had to go so slow just to keep from slipping. It was just such a tactical downhill section. 

11:00am, currently back on trail, leaving El Acebo. I just stopped at a cute little church, which was open and I got my stamp. Met a new pilgrim that I have not met before, his name was Tim, 58 years old from Seattle. Retired at 5,  he was in the software business 💰. Also said hi to a bunch of pilgrims that I’ve seen just about every day for the past few days since leaving Leon basically after that horrendous downhill things are kinda calmed down out here now,  just walking on a fairly level dirt road. We’re still up in the mountains region, so I for see more downhill in my future today. The sun continues to be right now, so  I’ve shed both my rain, jacket and poncho stuffed them underneath my rain pack just in case. I just come over a clearing and I can actually see Ponferrada in the distance, where I will be spending the night.

11:27am, entering Riego de Ambrose. 

12 o’clock noon at 10 miles, 4 hours 36 minutes. Temperature is 49° now but the sun has gone behind clouds, and it’s getting dark over my shoulder. It’s been very slow going for sure, usually by this time I’m up to 13+ miles but because of all the up & down today it really has slowed me down a lot. I figure I still have 6+ more miles to go get to Ponferrada.

12:24 pm, the rain has once again started the poncho was now on

12:41pm, entering Molinseca. Crossed over the Molinseca puente ( Roman) medieval bridge over the Rio Meruel, ( River).  Stopped for lunch @ De Mama. Ordered a hamburger with fries. The hamburgers here usually come with a fried egg and bacon on them. Not the greatest lunch, the bun was too soggy to hold the burger and it fell out all over my plate😡, but the fries were good!!

1:30pm, leaving Molinseca, I have a little over 4.5 miles until I reach Ponferrada. I start out walking on the sidewalk, that follows the road into Ponferrada. But like everything today, it is a up hill climb and to top it off the rain has returned. But this time it’s not just a light rain, oh no the heavy stuff is now spilling out of the sky. It’s almost comical at this point. I then veer off the sidewalk and onto a muddy dirt road. Enter the little village of Campo, back on the cobble stone streets. I keep seeing the Cathedral in Ponferrada, but I don’t feel like I am getting any closer. 

2:30pm, rain has about stopped, starting to enter the outskirts of Ponferrada. I am beat, this day has been, I would say, the toughest day on this Camino. Just all the ups & severe downs, the constant on & off rain, trail conditions, it’s kicked my ass!!!!

15:00pm, reached my Albergue Alda. This place has two separate buildings, the hotel and the Albergue. It looks to be a fairly new Albergue. Everything looks to be more updated. My room is on the second floor. Small room with 3 bunk beds. There is a guy already sleeping in one of the upper bunk beds. Unload my backpack, hit the showers, hang all my cloths up. Camino life stuff. Nothing to wash today since I washed most everything yesterday. Ran to the Pharmacy to get more Vaseline for my feet. Then I ran to the supermarket and bought some food to eat at my Albergue. Big cesar salad, pepperoni hot pockets, & a single rice pudding for desert. Chatted w/ Paul & Pam from New Castle Australia. Nice folks. They just became empty nesters. I came back to my room, and that guy is still sleeping, what gives w/ this dude. There is a stack of luggage in the room, but no backpacks!!

I was so tired that I did not even venture to the big cathedral or the castle, that I passed coming into town. Pictures will have to do. Tomorrow I head to Villafranca del Bierzo. I went ahead & pre booked my room for tomorrow. So no need to rush to get there. I am told that Villafranca is one of the prettiest towns on the Camino.

So quick recap, I’ll call this wall day, for the fact I nearly hit the wall today. Everyone I talked to today, had the same feelings, this was a tuff day. Now tomorrows walk is less mileage and no super big long climbs, but the weather forecast shows even a higher threat of rain. Enough w/ the rain already.

Let’s move on to stats shall we!!!! Foncebadón to Ponferrada, Stage 22

Miles- 17.4

Duration- 7 hrs 8 min, one of my longest days 

Elevation- 958ft, thought it might be higher

Temp- Low to mid 40’s, cloudy w/ periods of heavy rain, some sun

Song- Dazed & Confused,    Led Zeppelin

Tomorrows hike should be a little easier🤞🏻

Heading to bed, very tired tonight. Thanks for reading as always.