Camino Francis, Day 18, The Meseta

 Day 18 it’s May 6 6:53am, it is a brisk 36° today. I’m wearing two jackets and my buff for the first time and a way we go!! Not quite sure where today takes me. 

8:00am, 3.6 miles 1hr 10min since I left the town. I’ve been walking on this little double lane asphalt road and it is straight as an arrow. The Camino Trail is 5 feet off my left shoulder, but I’m just walking on the asphalt road, because it feels easier. Witnessed my first actual sunrise this morning. I got to see the sun actually break the horizon today, no clouds were blocking the view of the sunrise so that was very nice. Actually I have the moon about 9 o’clock off my left shoulder and the sun is about 4 o’clock off my right shoulder. I am wearing three layers of clothing this chilly morning. Wearing my long sleeve shirt w/ hoodie,  my fleece and my rain/wind jacket that’s really been keeping warm. Plus I’m wearing my buff, first time, I have it on my face tucked under my nose and over my ears. I can’t go over my nose with it because it makes my glasses fog up. Still wear my shorts, my legs aren’t cold, but my hands take the brunt of the cold. 

I am now actually walking by a grove of trees. Then more wheat fields, then more groves of trees. I am thinking the trees might divider for farmers🤔. I passed through one tree grove, I hear a cow bell, I look over,  and here comes a big group of cows just meandering through the grove. I know, Reliegos, is next village ahead of me, ruffly a couple hours away, but I think there might be one small village in between that w/ hopefully an open cafe. Yesterday I was pondering taking an alternate Camino route. Looking online the availability for sleeping arrangements wasn’t that great. They had a municipal Albergue, which is pay by donation only, to sleep there, the another albergue listed in my book, when I went online to check it out, it said permanently close. So I didn’t want to take that chance getting way out there and nothing be there available, so I just stuck to the regular Camino route. So far it’s been really quiet on the pilgrim count this morning. Passed a couple of pilgrims coming right out of town, but that’s been about I so far.  

9:00am. it is now 41°. I am currently at 7.2 miles 2hrs 14 min.  The sun is finally starting doing to do his job, and  starting to warm things up. I should be coming into Reliegos fairly soon now. Hopefully I’ll find me someplace to get some breakfast, starting to get hungry.  Sidenote, have you ever get that annoying little pebble in your shoe and you’re just too lazy to stop. First you wiggle your foot around a bit to trying to get the pebble to move or you kick your heal on the ground to get it to move. Somehow you think the pebble will vanish, yeah that never happens. Just stop and take the dang shoe off🤣

Those mountains, I had mentioned a couple days ago, are now getting much closer.  I can actually see a little bit of snow on one of the top of them. I know there are some mountains I go over but I think that’s still a bit down the trail. 

9:20am, finally reached the village of Reliegos. Stopped  at a the first cafe I came across. Ordered a Spanish Tortilla, cafe con Leche, banana, & a muffin. Reliegos is another popular stopping point for pilgrims because they have many sleeping options to choose from & two or three cafés/restaurants to eat at. It’s also a good launching point to get to León, in a days walk if you want to. 

Speaking of Spanish Tortilla, which is very popular here in Spain. Don’t quote me on this, but I think they’re only basically three ingredients potatoes, eggs, and onions and I assume salt. It’s baked in a circular pan and it’s about an inch and a half thick. Maryann loves them,  I prefer if I had a little salsa or tabasco  sauce to spice it up a bit. Asking for Tabasco sauce might offend them. That would be like going into a high-end stake house ordering a Prime Rib, Porter House, whatever, and then say “hey you got any A1 back there”🤣🤣. FYI, you can actually pick up a Spanish Tortilla at Trader Joe’s. They have them right now if you would like to try one.

Question of the day. Hey Randy, can you give us some good advice on what types of shoes I should ware while walking the Camino. Sure, I would love to help you out on this. Your shoes are probably the most important pieces of equipment you need for this adventure. Bad fitting shoes can make this walk miserable and I’ve seen evidence of that. There’s all types of different shoes I’ve seen on this hike. From your typical trail runners, hiking boots, short or tall, high top, low top shoes, tennis shoes, Teva’s, you name it. There many different options you have out there I use Ultras just because I like they have the wide toe box. But whatever you do pick, first of all it’s gotta feel comfortable. Second of all, they must have good arch support. I always tend to buy a half size larger just to allow my feet to swell and expand and they will plus you’re wearing thicker socks so you need that little extra room. Also a good tip is don’t walk with just the factory insoles. Take those out. Go out and get a pair of walking insoles that have good support. There’s many different types of brands of those, I currently use the Dr. Schulz’s they’re a softer gel for my shoes. Another important thing when you do get a new pair of shoes you need to break them in that means you need to go out and walk in them. I probably put close to a hundred miles on these shoes before I even brought them on this trip. You don’t have to get the Gore-Tex like I went this time, but they do kind of help. I’ve already seen people on this trail ditching their shoes and buying new pairs.   Also don’t buy shoes that your toes are all squished together. That is prime blister issues. Your toes need to breath. Hope this was helpful, thanks for asking,😉😉

It’s 10:10am, we’re still around 46°. Feels much warmer than that though I’m at 10 miles 3hrs 20min. into it. Still walking right next to this 2 Lane asphalt Rd. it’s crazy. I have read that there may be they , stretches on your walk,  where not many pilgrims are around or you may feel like you’re the only one out here. Well that’s exactly how I feel today except for the bicyclist going by. I do not see any pilgrims, it’s crazy. I’ve passed two pilgrims all day and that was way back in the beginning, where they all go?. Maybe I’m not on the right trail?🤣🤣, no there’s a big sign right in front of me. I kept thinking of the song from Pink Floyd’s “The Wall” , “ Is There Anybody Out There”

Funny scene unfolding before me I’ve told you about this little bitty road I’ve been walking next to for the past 10+ miles. Well there are two big rigs, just drove up on this road heading right at each other. Now this little road, barely two cars can get by each other going on this road, but now these two big rigs are doing the stare down. They both are inching there way by each other with both of there wheels on the dirt embankment. I couldn’t have even squeezed between those two trucks as they moved past each other, but they did it. Good times.

10:30am, found a nice bench. Time to shed some layers, took off my fleece and my rain jacket. 

Also sad times…I’m having to leave my little bitty road buddy behind, this is where we must separate. I’m sad, it’s been a good 10+ miles. We’ve had good long talks & walks but now it’s time to leave. but I know he will be okay.  I told him don’t look back I’ll be fine, so he just kept on going straight 🤣🤣

10:45am, Entered the village of Mancilla de las Mulas. Just passed a mile marker,  204 miles ago. I don’t think that’s right 🤔 and now we are in the region of Leon.

11:44am, entering the village of Villamoros de Mansilla

1149am, leaving the village of Villamoros de Mansilla 🤣🤣

12:13pm, I entered Puente Villarente. I’m at 15.7 miles, 5hrs 27 min. I just stopped a little roadside gift shop where I purchased a Camino pin. I am collecting them as I go. I am putting them on a strap on my backpack. The lady, at the gift shop, said I only have about 2 1/2 hours to get to Leon. So my decision has been made I’m heading to Leon. After a short walk I pass up one of the iconic picture spots on the Camino, a big beautiful medieval romanesque bridge. It looks as cool as it does in videos I have seen.

You’re not gonna believe this, I am walking down the side walk in Puente Villarente, I look down and I spot a pair of red lacey thong underwear just laying on the ground🤣🤣. I picked them up with a tip of my walking stick, and I see a trash can just a few ft away, so I just tossed them into the trash can. Somebody is going to be made when they find out their undies are missing. I could go on for ever w/ this🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

1:00pm, 18 miles 16 hrs15 min. Temp is 58° but it feels warmer than that. Currently heading to Leon, I should be there by around 3pm, by my estimate. 

3:00pm, at 23 miles, 60° out. Currently in the city of Leon heading to my hostel. Now I am doing the yellow arrow search. Looking around for markings to point me in the right direction. I am still on the Camino path, but it’s now in the big city.

3:30pm, entering the old city of Leon, this is where I’ll be staying for the next two nights. 

3:40pm, checked into Hostel San Martin, Leon, inside old city. Got to my room, and just fell back into the bed. First 24 mile day ever, w/ 20 lbs on my back. I forgot to mention that I finally wore my Teva sandals for the last 6-7 miles. They did really well.  

After resting up a bit, showered & washed my socks by hand, will do the rest of my laundry tomorrow. I the mood for some pizza, got online and found a pizza parlor directly across from the big Leon Cathedral

Stats of the Day,  El Burgo Ranero to Leon, Stage 18

Miles- 24.2   New Record

Duration- 8hrs21min

Elevation- 551ft

Temp- 35-61 degrees

Song- Tennessee Whiskey,  Chris Stapleton

Tomorrow is a rest day/chores day- laundry

Thanks as always for reading, have a fabulous day.

FYI- technically the Meseta is not over, I still have couple more stages of it. Then I go back to climbing, because what goes down must go up!!!!