Camino Francis, Day 20, The Meseta

 Day 20, May 9, 7:52am, 43° with rain showers today I am heading to Astorga, which officially will be the last day of walking through the Meseta. It was raining when I woke up, so I decided to just hang out the albergue for a little while longer. I had purchased the breakfast package when I arrived yesterday. It was basically a sack lunch. The bag contained a piece of bread for toast with jam and butter, and apple,  a carton of orange juice, a little pastry and a little cup with a packet of instant coffee. I actually gave my apple to Lawrence so he can feed it to his donkey later today and he thanked my. Today’s forecast, looks a lot like yesterday‘s periods of rain with intermittent heavy showers so I already have my poncho on and of course my pack cover over my backpack. It’s not currently raining right now. I have a fairly short day today compared to the last few days that I’ve been walking, I think I’m around 14 miles to Astorga today. Just leaving the city and now have entered back on to the muddy path already starting the zigzag dance around them my puddles.

This Albergue, was really nice. The staff was very friendly. They prepared a really good pilgrim dinner for us last night except for the garbanzo bean soup🤢. I had mentioned yesterday that this dorm room I was in had a total of 28 beds. I’m guessing probably about 18 of those beds were taken up. I had no top bunk mate, so that was nice. They also have four or five single rooms w/ attached bathrooms. There is no separation of the men and woman in these type of dorms. They just mix everybody together. Now the bathrooms & showers are usually separate, but I have stayed in places where both showers & bathrooms are both shared😳

The general consensus, of at least everybody I was talking to we’re all going to Astorga today. It’s a major pilgrim stop with lots and lots of places to sleep and places to eat. I am currently still walking on the alternate route that I was on yesterday. It should be connecting back up to the regular Camino Francis not too far ahead. They’re supposed to be another alternate coming up sometime today. I haven’t really looked at that one yet once I join up back up with the regular Camino. I see from my map booklet it just follows the main road that leads into a Astorga, but the other route kind of goes like what I did yesterday kind of goes out and about and around I guess it would be more scenic. 

OK, I’ve come to the point where the alternate route, I started on yesterday, meets back to the regular Camino in the town of Hospital de Orbigo. This town, also has one of the best preserved Roman bridges in existence.  Now just passing Kraft Factory and on the side of the building says Philadelphia cream cheese.

8:51am, still in Hospital de Orbigo, just went over the medievalRoman Bridge, Paso Hontoso. It is beautiful, man o man. Still has the in-laid cobble stones on the road over the span of the bridge. I stopped at a cafe w/ a fabulous beautiful view of the bridge. I sat out on the covered patio drank my cafe con leche admiring that bridge. They even have a full jousting court next to the bridge.

9:21am, 46° with light sprinkles I am at 3.9 miles 1hr 31 min. Just leaving Hospital de Orbigo and have arrived at that other alternate route. So once again I chose to do the alternate route other than taking the route that goes just by the road. It’s about 1 km farther than the regular Camino route. I met my first pilgrim from Holland. Her name was Annuschka. Say that three times fast!! Then I just met Pam and Paul from Australia, about two hours north of Sydney

10:41pm, off the alternative route and back onto the regular Camino route. It was a nice little change, since the regular Camino trails follows the freeway. I ended up went going through a couple of really small villages. You can tell these villages are trying to attract pilgrims to come through their little town. Each village had one Albergue each and just a couple of small cafés. It seems the majority of the pilgrims chose the regular route rather than the alternative. I only counted 5-6 pilgrims on this route that I could see. This alternative was only couple of kilometers longer than the main Camino. I think pilgrims are just wanting to get to Astorga the quickest way possible.

After I merged back w/ the main Camino route I talked to a couple pilgrims and they told me the regular route was right next to the freeway and it was loud w/ the trucks zipping by. So I was glad I choose the alternate. After I joined  back to the Camino, we had to cross that busy stretch of road. With no crosswalks, we just had to be patient when it was clear to cross. Once on the other side of the road, “the trail started in an upward trajectory. The rain was very light at this point, but I still kept on my poncho. Currently at 8.2 miles.

It’s 11:20am, entering San Justo de la Vega, crossing the river Tuerto. Looks like the rain may have finally stopped. 

12:30pm, 51°, cloudy, but I can see some blue sky in the distance. Entering Astorga. Right at 13 miles. Stopped to put my Albergue’s address in my phone. Let’s see if can get me there🙏

12:45pm, my phone actually got me to my Albergue without taking me on a site seeing adventure🤣. Tonight’s place of stay, Albergue San Javier. I’m in a 25 single bed dorm room. Have said hi to a few pilgrims that I have met on my walk. It’s good to reconnect w/ people I have not seen in a few days. There is no pilgrim meal at this particular Albergue. Reason being it is just too big of a place to seat this many people. Plus there are many restaurant options in Astorga. Of course the first thing I did was go shower, while there is still plenty of hot water🤣. Then I proceeded to was a couple items and get them hung up on the cloths line. There is a little breeze, so hopefully they will dry. This place does have two washer dry combos, but all I had to wash was just a couple items. Not worth the five euros just to wash a couple of items

I went to the Santa Maria de Astorga Cathedral. Very beautiful Cathedral. Not near as grand the Cathedral in Leon, but it had its own beauty. Also it offered self a guided recorded tour, but I had to use a hand held device to listen to the tour. Saw a gift shop across the street from the Cathedral and bought two more collector pins to add to my back pack. Currently sitting at a bar awaiting for the Gaudi Palace to open. I thought the rain was done, but nope, no sooner I step foot out of my Albergue it started to rain. 😡 and I am wearing my open toe Teva’s. My Altra’s are currently on a shoe rack with newspaper stuffed in them to help them dry. Camino Life!!!

Day20 Stats, Villavante to Astorga

Miles- 13.4

Duration- 4hrs38 min

Elevation- 587ft

Temp- 43-51 degrees, Cloudy w/ intermittent rain 

Song- It’s Raining Again,      Supertramp

Tomorrow I head to Foncebadon, just around 15.5 miles. Still rain showers predicted, off and on all day.

Couldn’t get into the Gaudi Palace, apparently it was closed today, oh well next time.

Thanks again for reading along on my Camino adventure, have a great day where ever you may be.

Today ends the Meseta portion of my Camino.